The New Designers Show is always exciting to watch, as it exudes an element of rawness and imperfection. An artist, in the process of fine-tuning their talents is such an incredible thing to observe.

The collection from Spanish designer, Margo de Vidal, exemplified a mood of sensuality and elements of gentleness. Earth tones on silky fabrics helped define the natural theme of her collection. Silks and sheer fabrics danced down the runway in tie-dyes and tribal prints. Crop tops and Kimono style pieces draped nicely over the body. Margo’s use of mixed media was magnificent. My favorite look- a silky Kimono top with a leather waistband and a simple rope, tied around the body at the waist. Intriguing pieces with practicality made this a desirable collection.

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Playful use of props and vintage design details lent themselves to defining this 1920s inspired collection by Lukka. Loose flapper-style dresses with low or no waistlines allowed models to comfortable strut with their long cigarette holders or thick fur shawl in hands. This well rounded collection presented a charming use of vintage hats, headpieces, and props to enhance the overall presentation. Satins, sequins and long fringe emulated the bygone era to a T with slight references to Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2015 Couture Collection. How refreshing to see such artistic expression on the runway!

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Inspired by colors of sunset, the collection by Fretka had much more of a youthful element. Shiny satins sculpted into crop tops and halters paired well with long hemlines. Her use of sheer organza layered over shorter hemlines, gave the collection a nice diversity. A line like this is every prom queen’s dream.

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Couture by Gaetano featured a whimsical collection with complex design details, exemplifying true passion and talent. Tightly fitting dresses with streamlined silhouettes were composed of several different types of silky and sheer fabrics, using the contrast of positive and negative space as a major design element. Sheer capes attached at the wrists and lower back. Asymmetrical lines of embellishing appliqués around delicately crafted cutouts gave the collection characteristics of modern elegance.

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The collection by Mari Ahoy was more experimental, using lace and printed silk fabrics to construct the garments. Showing exemplary pattern making skills, the garments create an avant garde collection with unique shapes and versatility.

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A suave collection channeling Paul Poiret and vintage Parisian style defined the aesthetic of Maria Cutajar. A mix of silky and sturdy fabrics in contrasting whites, blacks, and greys create well-structured garments throughout this collection. Sexy bustiers, asymmetrical crop tops, and towering bateau necklines added an exotic edge. A masterful assortment, indeed, this is for those women who prefer comfort with sex appeal.

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Soft, lightweight fabrics in pastel blues, greens, and creams create the practical, everyday look by Poshet! These casual separates show versatility and femininity with a youthful flair. Statement pieces made up of pastel fabric flower embellishments tied the line together, pairing nicely with soft cream cottons and sheers. Crafty and sophisticated, this selection of separates makes for a very marketable collection.

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Inspired by nightlife, the wild assortment of brightly colored garments makes up the lively line by MC Fashion. Combinations of bright colors are like candy for a fashionista’s eyes. Playful use of asymmetry and flirtatious use of tulle allure the eyes as these garments gleam on the runway. Portraying bright colors in a stylish and funky blend, this designer has an eye for individuality.

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Exquisite pattern making and plush fabrics make up the designs by Edith. Through the experimental deconstruction of fabric, the garments achieve a soothing aesthetic with carefully thought-out asymmetry and Asian-like elements. These designs seem to have some reference to the aesthetic of Yohji Yamamoto. The experimental combinations of materials, such as canvas and dyed ostrich feathers, create a particular majestic presentation. I may go as far to say that certain garments from this collection seem almost museum worthy pieces.

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Gabrielle Fenech created an appealing look of rebellion through her combinations of lightweight fabrics with thicker fabrics and leathers. Choker collars attached to sheer capes along with gladiator-like shapes and details form a bridge between masculinity and femininity. Intricate headpieces channeling the artistic Philip Treacy are defining pieces in this dramatic collection. It is through such passionate artistic expression that we see trends evolve throughout the world of fashion.

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Sara Scicluna targets a young generation through her youthful brand, Daze. Borrowing from skate and club culture, this brand emanates a relaxed and casual aesthetic. With practical screen-printed separates, the marketability of this brand has much potential.

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Through her fantastical approach to fashion, Sarah Caruana Dingli channels Alice in Wonderland in her wondrous couture collection. With eclectic printed fabrics, colorful satins, lace and sequins, the line is able to tell a visual story. Ambitious use of texture is seen on several skirts from white, bridal-like fabric adornments to layered scales of black fabric cutouts. A variety of silhouettes allow diversity to come through the line, my favorite being the rounded, short hoop skirts. Playful hats tie in the fairytale references. The origins of Sarah’s inspirations are well read throughout this eccentric collection.

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We tied the evening to a close with Beyond Couture, an intriguing line created from silky printed fabrics. The draped fabrics exuded a grey reptilian texture with pops of pink, rose red, and aqua blue. The dresses were wrapped in a variety of styles including halters, v-cut, and crisscrossed necklines. Sexy slits and cutouts in the draped designs gave the line a certain element of sensuality. Capes and hoods tied in a mysterious touch. A line to lust after closed the evening with excitement.

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Guests mingled after the show, scouting outfits and enjoying drinks in the Mediterranean Conference Center. It was a full day of fashion in Valletta, starting the week off with promises of potential and much to live up to.

Show review written by Sacha Kinser and Pierre Mizzi – Logixcreative crew for MFWA.

Have a look at insights from our fashion bloggers:

“Artistically approachable, some of the designs and pieces emanate raw energy, calculated nonchalance, and capricious extravagance. Others exude boldness, ebullience, and perseverance in their staying power.” –Style in Transit

“Sarah Caruana Dingli opted for an Alice In Wonderland themed collection, in which her creativity and imagination broke all boundaries and made its way into our hearts on the catwalk.” –Svetlana sp

“Yesterday’s evening show was definitely one of the most awaited shows of the lot; everyone is naturally intrigued to see what goes on in the minds of the new creative.” –Ask Dorianne

“The Mercedes-Benz Malta Fashion Week New Designers Fashion Show presented an interesting and inspiring array of styles and aesthetics, some more daring than others – let’s just keep it at that, shall we?” –Confessions of a Former Size 6

“I love discovering new talent and I am always in such awe at other people’s grand capabilities. And this year was no exception… From captivating tribal prints, attention to fine detail, colourful ensembles, fairytale themes and cheeky slogans…we really saw it all this year!”  –Splashes of Looks